Kolkata :
Sheherwali cuisine, unique to Jains who had settled in Murshidabad around 400 years ago, is on the cusp of becoming ‘endangered’.
Evolved from a confluence of multiple cuisines, it is still the mainstay in the Sheherwali households of Kolkata. But with community now experiencing reverse migration and the young ones moving to other cities, a shadow has been cast over the cuisine’s survival.
“The Sheherwalis are famous for their gastronomic preferences. The meals are always served in courses. The food that is to be consumed is cooked daily. The dishes served at lunch are distinct from those served at dinner with summer and winter variances as well. The tradition was kept alive for centuries by the close-knit community. But, this is gradually disintegrating with inter-community marriage becoming inevitable and their daughters landing up in Marwari, Gujarati or Punjabi Jain kitchens. Also unlike our generation, when men were primarily in business and women homemakers, today’s educated youths are professionals. Many of them migrate to other cities and even abroad. They have neither the time nor the inclination to pursue the fine art of cooking Sheherwali dishes,” said Sumitra Jhunjhunwala, a member of the Sheherwali community.
In the years to come, it will be a challenge to keep authentic dishes, like Kachhe Kela Ke Chop, Kumra ka Murabba, Saloni Mewa ke Khichdi and Kachha Aam ke Kheer, alive. Already, Mirchi ka Achaar and Kaathbel Pachak are no longer made in the Sheherwali homes in Kolkata. These are instead procured from a family in Murshidabad’s Azimganj.
A cook booklet containing Anita Dugar’s favourite dishes that her children Sujata and Priyankar had compiled after her death has recently become much sought afterwith many Sheherwali families keen to send it to their children living away hoping that they would at least try out some of the recipes to learn the art. Mindful of the threat, the Sheherwalis in Kolkata are trying to retain the tradition to the best of their ability.
Businessman Tushar Singhi, who takes much interest and pride in the cuisine, said the community patronized special cooks who prepared Sheherwali food and sweets at marriages and other community events. “Even in the community, there are some who are catering from home to keep others rooted to the taste and affinity for the cuisine,” he said.
Though there is no Sheherwali restaurant in Kolkata yet, Singhi and others are well aware that the fine essence of Sheherwali cuisine needs to travel beyond their kitchens so that others get to taste it as well. Hence, when ITC Hotels approached Murshidabad Heritage Development Society to showcase Sheherwali cuisine, the community was delighted.
“In its endeavor to enable Indian cuisine its rightful place in the global culinary scape, ITC Hotels accords special emphasis on showcasing regional Indian cuisines while presenting global dining concepts, perfected on Indian soil. This initiative under the aegis of Kitchens of India will showcase Indian’s wealth of unique, undiscovered, royal and forgotten cuisines. Sheherwali is the first of the series. Sheherwali cuisine is a vegetarians paradise, in which Bengali meets Rajasthani, Afghan, Mughal, Awadhi and even several European culinary practices, making it a unique mix of ingredients and flavors that tantalizes the palate,” said ITC Sonar master chef Mayank Kulshreshtha. The cuisine will be on offer at Eden Pavilion in ITC Sonar from August 25 to 30 as part of dinner buffet.
source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / News Home> City> Kolkata / by Subhro Niyogi, TNN / August 24th, 2015